My Defender, Projects

The Big Body Issues…..

To give some idea of the task ahead, I thought I’d share some photos of the areas of most concern for this project.

This post is all about the body.

Doors, floor rails, C posts, capping, wheels; all need replacing.

Over the time of this blog I’ll be showing the attempts I make at this. Bearing in mind I haven’t welded or performed any bodywork restoration previously, It’ll be interesting (for me anyway) to learn how to do all of this.

In addition to the lack of experience, there are other things to overcome such as not having a workshop or garage of any kind in which to do the work….

We’ll see how I get on…

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6 Comments

  1. Steve,

    Ouch, those doors and sills don’t look great. Will you be learning to weld yourself or getting somebody else to do them? I’m hopeless at welding so paid for a local guy to do the repairs on my bulkhead. For the cost of that though I could have bought a good welding set! I really must learn to weld before doing another project.

    To be honest your 110 doesn’t really have much more rust on it than our 8 year old jap pickup which has also done over 200K miles but the difference is your truck is some 15 years older than our Mazda! Shame that Land Rover stopped galvanising parts though as my Series 2 tub cappings have no rust on them despite being 50 years old and yet yours seem to have rust holes in them. I just don’t understand why they didn’t galv them before painting, same for door sills, hinges, chassis etc as it would have given them a far better reputation for longevity.

    Anyway, best wishes for your rebuild,

    Ian

    Reply
    1. Hey Ian,

      I’m learning to weld so that I can do as much for myself as possible. There’s chassis work to do also but I’ll cover that later.

      The capping is going to be a challenge to replace, but where I feasibly can I’ll be replacing any items with rust proof, galvanised, zinc plated, stainless etc etc pieces.

      I also think the benefit of doing it myself is that I can do as much work as I want on the metal to protect it from the elements.

      Thanks for the comment.

      Steve

      Reply
      1. The cappings come off quite easily by driling out the rivets. I took off all the cappings on my tub before I sprayed the tub. The problem for you is that you’ll need to lift off the upper bodywork to get to the rivets if they are in the same place as the Series trucks. To be fair the bodywork usually unbolts relatively easily but the issue is getting it back aligned afterwards. If you do this remember to buy new rubber seals for between all the panels so you can get a nice waterproof body. Don’t try and re-use the old seals as we tried to do with my wifes truck cab as they never re-seal properly and leak – another job on my list of things to do 🙂

        Reply

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